It’s ok to get geeky sometimes, even if you want to be ‘inclusive’
The stills at Fettercairn Distillery. The cooling ring can be seen on the right.
How to get the balance between inviting everyone in regardless of whisky knowledge, while delving into educational intricacies? A trip to Fettercairn taught me that the answer is to keep returning to the joy of it all.
As a whisky writer and educator, my greatest sense of satisfaction comes from seeing others get excited about the spirit. It literally doesn’t matter what that moment of ‘wow’ is. It could be through a tasting, as was my own experience. It might be via a distillery tour, where the sights, sounds and smells bring the spirit to life in new and profound ways. It might be via a cocktail, or through historical archives. Perhaps a familial link weaves it all together.
All of these introductions to whisky are more than valid. And while absolutely no-one has to go on ‘a journey’ to further their knowledge, at the same time we need to create space for those who might want to go deeper. This really hit home to me this week on a visit to Fettercairn distillery, courtesy of Whyte & Mackay.
For those who haven’t delved into the distillery before, Fettercairn is a Highland single malt set to celebrate its 200th birthday later this year. It has smartly embraced its heritage while clearly aligning itself with the modern drinker (a small but important point: nary a thread of tartan can be found in its airy, welcoming visitor centre). It tastes great too – I genuinely feel it’s a single malt Scotch that successfully balances the high line between quality, price and interest.
And yet, what I loved most about it was its stills.
Cooling rings, set in the neck of the spirit stills, release water over the surface of the copper. Technically, it results in greater reflux for a lighter, smoother spirit – the equivalent of stretching out the height of the still. Romantically, the cooling rings result in the most glorious patina. Colours like I’ve never seen in a distillery as H20 meets Cu. The flow, delicate yet profound, is mesmerising. The stills weren’t even on – imagine the added steam, the multi-dimensional movement, the unique drama. Nothing like this exists anywhere else in Scotland.
Could someone new to whisky, or perhaps someone who loves whisky in cocktails but has no desire to go deeper in terms of distillation, understand the chemistry behind it all? Maybe. But who cares either way? That sheer sight of it all could well enthral, perhaps even recruit as a new, loyal drinker. It could happen without any of the technical know-how added in. And that’s wonderful. For loads of whisky drinkers, that’s as far as it goes. And we need to let people know it’s ok if that’s them.
For others, the sight of the stills might spark a fresh revelry when it comes to whisky production. It could kick off discussions around still shape, reflux, cut points. Which is amazing! There should always be this space for this level of learning. The trouble is, up until now, it feels like this is all there’s been. People must learn. But what if they just like the spectrum of colour that dapples over the copper?
Come back to the joy. Be led by the fascination. That’s when to go deeper, to press, to invite in. The sight of the stills at Fettercairn made me want to understand distillation even more – but if they hadn’t, that’s ok, too. Let’s celebrate the joy – let that be the gateway to the next steps of whisky making – if that’s what our friends, clients and customers want.
I am SO passionate that whisky is for everyone. It's a universal truth. And part of that truth is making space for people who do want to go deeper. But in a way that’s equal to those who just want to marvel. The best way to tell who might have which need? Explore that joy and be led by it. Curiosity is the best place to learn from – and with whisky, there is so very much to be curious about.
