‘Women in whisky’ – why it’s time to evolve the conversation
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Earlier this month the world marked International Women’s Day. I say the ‘world’ – it seems like the occasion was mostly celebrated by the corporate sphere. It was taken as an opportunity to wheel out the women in the workforce for photo opps. Whisky was particularly susceptible to the charade. I don’t doubt it was well-meaning. And we all know representation matters. According to 2022 Distilling Women data, just 8% of distilleries are owned and operated by women. This is ludicrous. It’s a truth generally accepted that you can’t be what you can’t see – and there’s no doubt that progress is being made in this area. More women are choosing to build their careers in whisky and drink the spirit than ever before.
And yet. Despite seeing more women than usual across my Instagram feed and in my inbox on 8 March, it all felt a bit… flat. A bit too perfect and shiny. Hollow. That it felt so unusual seeing the whisky industry’s women was part of the problem. It just wasn’t an accurate picture. Well-meaning it may be, but what are we as an industry doing to support, champion and invest in women throughout the rest of the year?
It’s important to note the pervasive binary nature of gender-related reporting. Not everyone is a man or a woman. We need to move past putting people in two reductive boxes. While International Women’s Day is clearly about women, many of the topics here more broadly apply to people of other underrepresented genders, too.
A narrow view
On the day itself, I saw a very narrow view of womanhood represented. If whisky is to meaningfully push equality and equity forward, not just on International Women’s Day, then it must be for all women. It’s become a celebration of one version of success. Typically middle class, generally white – but what about everyone else?
Yes, working women. But also women not ‘killing it’ at work. Women of all ethnicities. Trans women. Queer women. Disabled women. Neurodivergent women. Working class women. Where were these groups on International Women’s Day? If we’re just seeing the same sorts of faces, where really is the progress?
Then comes the hypocrisy. This doesn’t apply to all companies, of course. And there are some notable exceptions. But in an age of widespread gender pay and bonus gaps (the latter stood at 53.9% at Macallan and Highland Park parent Edrington in 2023) it’s difficult to see how the industry is meaningfully tackling gender-based inequality. Pay is probably the easiest place to measure progress. If we’re failing here, what about everywhere else?
Zero tolerance
And it extends way beyond the office. Women – both guests and staff, from what I understand – are four times more likely to experience sexual assault in a nightlife setting than men (BMC Public Health). According to an Equality and Human Rights Commission report, the vast majority of bar and waiting staff say they have either experienced or witnessed inappropriate sexual behaviour. Even worse, they report not being able to get management support to address it. The report specifically looked at harassment on the grounds of gender and sexual orientation – a useful reminder that we can’t look at this through the lens of gender alone.
Reports can feel far-removed and distant. So let’s get closer to home. In recent times I’ve witnessed, been on the receiving end of, and chatted with women about their own experiences of physical assault and harassment. On the grounds of gender and sexuality. In whisky environments. At major trade events. Yes, you almost certainly know the perpetrators. Maybe you witness this behaviour, too. That’s part of the problem – it’s become so ingrained in all our communities that it’s easy to explore, or dismiss as a bit of ‘banter’. ‘Oh, they’re just drunk,’ I’ve heard, too. Well, whether for work or play, we are interacting with each other in whisky-saturated spaces. We need a zero-tolerance approach to this behaviour regardless of the number of units consumed. We’re in a moment where brands shout about the “wonderful” women in their businesses on Instagram one day yet overlook, minimise and allow this dangerous, damaging behaviour the next.
Assimilate to get ahead
My final note explores why this culture in whisky isn’t changing – at least not fast enough. We often consider it a positive thing when women join boards and lead businesses. I broadly believe this to be true. But also – so what? Someone’s gender alone doesn’t mean anything – least not a commitment to doing things differently. Especially if, as has been the case for decades, the way to get to the top is to assimilate into male-dominated spaces to get ahead. Be ‘one of the boys’. I see this with the ‘I haven’t let my gender hold me back’ arguments. That may well be true for individuals – but it means nothing in terms of tackling inequality for underrepresented groups. Until both at work and in the bar we make space for and affirm more diverse perspectives and ways of working, we will never move far from cultures and environments that inherently benefit men. A plea to those who have ‘made it’: don’t pull the ladder up behind you.
International Women’s Day was always meant to be about taking action. For all women and underrepresented groups, not just the Instagram-worthy few. In some ways, ‘women in whisky’ is no longer new. Some progress is being made. Yet it feels like we’ve got ourselves honed in on a narrow few. It’s time to evolve the focus if we want to see more meaningful change. Because whisky is for everyone – in the bar, the boardroom and everywhere in between.
